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3 out of 3 (100%) reviewers recommend this product
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1 to 5 of 14 Reviews.
1 – 5 of 14 Reviews
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Most Recent
5 out of 5 stars.
The pump assembly is the product that was needed.
8 months ago
My truck is back on the road. It starts and runs well.
Helpful?
1 out of 5 stars.
Junk !
9 months ago
They didn’t wind up putting one on my truck , they brought 2 in to install and they were both defective and didn’t work
Helpful?
5 out of 5 stars.
Very happy
2 years ago
This pump fit perfect and is performing well. The staff at the Wawa Canadian special ordered the pump for me and I was up and running in 2 days. The service was excellent v
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5 out of 5 stars.
Works fine
2 years ago
Clean easy fast fit.
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4 out of 5 stars.
Probably didn't need a new fuel pump after all.
2 years ago
It's been 3 months and 2,000 kms since the repair/ replacement, and car runs fine, but it turns-out that I may not have needed to replace the fuel pump after all. This was not a job I wanted to do myself, but ended-up doing myself, learning some lessons along the way.
Total time of repair:
40+ hours, spread over 2 months
Tools I didn't have, but really wish I had:
power probe
table vise suitable for handling tubing
Tools I had, that made the job easier:
cordless oscillating multi-tool with carbide blade
cordless rotary tool with metal cut-off wheel
cordless impact wrench and 1/2" impact socket set
hydraulic flaring tool
friend's car
flare nut wrench set
5/16" and 3/8" tube straighteners
5/16" and 3/8" tube benders
Essential tools and supplies:
Haynes Manual
class B fire extinguisher
safety glasses
nitrile gloves
jack and jack stands
screwdriver set
wrench set
1/2" socket set and breaker bar
1/4" and 3/8" socket set
fuel siphon
fuel can
snap ring pliers
5/16" and 3/8" copper nickel brake line substituted for steel fuel line
fuel filter
tube cutter
Replaced this fuel pump because I thought that an intermittent short was being caused by the fuel pump. For several years, the fuel gauge on the dash was not working. Also, the fuel filter had not been changed for several years due to rusted fuel lines, and the shop not wanting to touch it. Then one day, driving into a parking lot, the car just died. Tried boosting the car. No joy. Spark plugs and ignition wires were a few months new, as were the alternator and starter. It then occurred to me to check the fuse for the fuel pump, and yup, it was blown, so replaced the 15A fuse, and the car was good to go. Bought this fuel pump anyways to keep in the trunk, just in case.
A month or so later, the fuel pump fuse started to blow intermittently. Tried to recreate the short by moving around some wire harnesses in the engine, and the wires at the connector leading to the fuel pump, while the engine was running. No joy. Google and YouTube searching turned-up that a likely fix would be to replace the fuel pump, so resolved to do this job myself. Almost everything that could go wrong, did go wrong. Ended-up replacing the fuel filter, the main 3/8" fuel line, the fuel pump, 1 fuel tank strap and bolt, a portion of 5/16" fuel return line, the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, and the fuel injectors (with used ones from the U-Pull yard). Took another look at the wiring diagrams from Haynes manual, and realized that the fuel injectors and fuel pump share the same fuse.
Measured resistance of fuel pump relay to be 60-100 ohms, same as the relay for A/C. Measured resistance of all 4 fuel injectors to be 20-50 ohms. Current draw of new pump was a steady 3.5A. Finally, finally bit the bullet, and as per 1-month old suggestion of friend, ran new 14 gauge primary wire to fuel injectors and fuel pump. No more blown fuses. I took a chance and kept the existing wiring to the ECM and from the relay to the fuse, and confirmed that the existing 15A fuse was still part of the circuit by test cranking the engine with the fuse removed. Have to admit, I was a bit nervous cutting the fuel injector wires and the brand spanking new fuel pump power wire. PTSD like jitters for a few weeks afterwards, sensitive to anything that sounded like the pop of a blown fuse. Must have gone through almost 100 15A fuses in total. A small fortune in fuses alone.
Never thought I'd be a Parts Changer, but there it is. Normally, I like to reward myself after a job well done, by buying some more tools, but this was a job not well done. And this time, I had already pre-spent a small fortune on tools and parts to do jobs that needn't have been done. Parts cannon meet parts changer meet tool monger. First from having blinders on when diagnosing the problem, and then lack of skill and tools in diagnosing an intermittent short. I now have my eye on some circuit tracer or power probe diagnostic tools. If I had to do this over, I would probably pay the shop for 1-2 hours of diagnostics time.
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1 - 6 of 6 Questions
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Q: what pressure in lbs does the pump put out
a year ago
2 Answers
A: Low pressure pump about 6 psi
a year ago
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Q: This part number carter P76801is supposed to fit 2008-2010 f250 diesel. The picture does not match the description though... Is this oe replacement, or a generic pump?
a year ago
1 Answer
A: The P76801 is shown below and does cover the 08-10 Ford F-250 Super Duty.
a year ago
Helpful?
Q: Pump pressure please
2 years ago
1 Answer
A: 43psi minimum pressure
2 years ago
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Q: I want to use this for a marine application. What are the input and output barb sizes? What is the maximum height from tank allowed?
4 years ago
1 Answer
A: Best answer we could provide is that this Product is not for marine use.
Thanks
3 years ago
Helpful?
Q: What is the output pressure psi
Thanks
4 years ago
1 Answer
A: Hello - in order to provide you an accurate answer you will need to provide your vehicle type so we can input your Year, Make, Model & Engine.
Thanks,